Excerpts from Phillip Jordan’s River Trip Journal
Phillip Jordan is a wildlife photographer whose photographs have been used in books, magazines, maps, brochures and displays for the U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Georgia Department of Natural Resources, The Appalachian Trail Conference, The National Geographic Society, The University Of Georgia Press and many others. The last few years he has concentrated on documenting life along the Altamaha River System, comprised primarily of the Ocmulgee, Oconee, Ohoopee and Altamaha rivers.
The following are excerpts from his 2016 river trip journal.
Friday October 14, 2016 Day 1
Elderly (65 and older). That was one of the categories I had to choose from to get an absentee ballot. Well I just turned 65 a few days ago but I do not consider myself elderly. I needed to vote absentee in case I am not back from this canoe trip by election day. So there is no need to rush I have already voted.
In 2014 I paddled my 15.5 ft. kayak down the Ocmulgee from Macon to the Altamaha then down it to the marina on Hwy. 17 on the south branch of the Altamaha. Last year I paddled it down the Oconee to the Altamaha then down it to Darien. They were both scouting trips to see if this trip was possible for me—a trip I have wanted to make for years. In the not so distant past, and for thousands of years, these rivers were two way transportation corridors from the interior to the coast using various types of human powered watercraft.
On this trip I want to get to know and feel a little of what it was like to paddle against the current for long distances and many days. I plan to go down the Ocmulgee 203 miles to the forks where it collides head on with the Oconee to form the Altamaha. The Altamaha T`s off at a 90 degree angle and heads for the Atlantic Ocean. Instead of heading down the Altamaha as I have done on previous trips I will paddle up the Oconee 135 miles to the Hwy. 24 bridge in Milledgeville.
If I get to Milledgeville in a reasonable amount of time Miriam [my wife] will meet me with a supply of food and I will head back down the Oconee and Altamaha to Darien. I have allowed 23 days.
My previous trips lead me to believe going up the Oconee is possible for me and should be relatively safe. I ruled out trying to go up the Ocmulgee. It has too many long new cuts with deep swift water full of snags and no way to portage.
Instead of my 88 pound kayak I am using my 17 ft. solo canoe. Not only is it lighter, 40 pounds. with the spray cover, it is faster.
Billy Ozburn put me out at the Spring St. Bridge in Macon this morning. There was a large excavator on the boat ramp when we arrived. The water is so low they were using the opportunity to remove snags that had piled up against the bridge pilings. They were very cooperative, suspending work while we loaded and launched the canoe.
There are homeless people camping under the bridge on the opposite shore.
They were not there in 2014.
River very low. Had to get out of the canoe three times to get around trees. Don`t mind getting out in shallow water but not a fan of getting out in deep water with lots of snags. Gators like to hide in snags and wait for an easy meal to come along.
As I came around a sharp bend today there was a dead pig in the mud and halfway in the river. My first thought was why hasn`t a gator eaten such an easy meal. I had just seen two large ones up the river a short ways. I was only about five feet from it as I made the turn. As I reached for my camera the dead pig jumped up and ran squealing as it went. I was so surprised to see a dead pig run that fast I missed the shot.
Got photos of two deer at the mouth of Tobesofkee Creek.
Am camped near Robins Air Force Base. Can hear planes landing and taking off. Some come in directly over me. Hope they take the night off.
The Barred Owls greeted me when I stopped here at five. It is almost a full moon. Hope they tune up again tonight.
Saturday, Oct. 15, 2016 Day 2
7:15 a.m. Quiet night, coyotes in the distance no planes
.
5:20 p.m. Stopped for the night at the small island I camped on in 2014. Because of the low water it is no longer an island.
The river was an obstacle course today. Had to get the canoe over one tree that was blocking the river. Could not go around because of high bank on one side and thick vegetation on the other. Someone had tried to cut it with a chainsaw. The saw got pinched so they left the bar and chain in the tree. It will be a major hazard for boats when water covers the bar.
Got by two trees by squeezing between their root balls and the river bank.
Not much wildlife today. No gators seen. Probably because it was an overcast windy day.
Got good photos of a great blue. I just drifted below the limb it was on. Could hear it softly grunting as I drifted by.
7:30 p.m. The barred owls have started and I also hear gun shots in the distance. It is deer season.
Well it is time to settle in. I need my 10-12 hours of sleep so my body can recoup.
Sunday, October 16
Day 3
5:00 a.m. Just heard four gun shots in rapid succession. Sounded like an automatic weapon. Don`t know what kind of hunting that is. The only other noises during the night have been barred owls and the sound of the river. The snags in it make it sound like a babbling mountain stream.
7:40 p.m. The river had a little of everything today. Snags this morning and shoals and big water this afternoon. A few of the shoals were fun with little standing waves at their bases.
Saw four fishing boats and four kayakers below Hawkinsville.
Got a photo of a small alligator swimming. It had a damsel fly on its head. Also got several photos of an immature little blue on a log with a river cooter.
Just heard the first barred owls of the night. Lots last night. I hope the same for tonight.
Monday, October 17
Day 4
5:00 a.m. Just waked up by some wild hogs rooting around in the woods. When they got too close for comfort I hollered and they slowly walked away.
7:30 a.m. Lots of barred owls. One very close. I love their call.
5:15 p.m. Stopped for the night on a large sandbar below Abbeville. Did not get as far as I thought I would. The route around the new cut above Abbeville was worse than two years ago. I had to go through, around and under dozens of trees. The water was only inches deep so I had to get out and pull a lot. The new cut has a dangerous rock ledge at its mouth, is full of snags and is very swift. I have always avoided it.
When I got to it was surprised to see road signs. One said DO NOT ENTER. The other was a DETOUR sign pointing to the old channel. I have never seen road signs on a river before. I guess several people must have been killed for them to do that. There also was a pile of large rocks in the middle of the cut about 100 yards up from the mouth. It had a tall striped pole in the middle of it. There was some type of concrete structure near the bank. Wonder what their purpose is and how they got them there.
Lots of other snags and shoals today as well as big water. Should be easier paddling now to the Oconee where the real work begins. Saw only two fishing boats today. Think the low water is keeping most away.
Saw four large gators along the way and then two small ones, around 4 feet, that were sunning together. Got photos of an immature white ibis.
The island that is formed by the cut above Abbeville is very large and full of pigs. I could hear them grunting all the way around. About a dozen small ones ran across the river in front of me as I was cutting my way through the top of a tree that was across the river.
Just heard the first barred owls of the night. I welcome them but not the pigs.
Tuesday, October 18
Day 5
7:30 a.m. A nice quiet night. Barred owls and coyotes. Moon up at nine and bright all night.
7:25 p.m. Just got in tent. Did not stop until six. Wanted to get below Hwy. 441.
Went through several cuts today. At times the river was so chopped up there were three choices of route. One of the cuts was swift and full of trees. Had to take it because the old channel was completely blocked and dry. Had to use every maneuver I know to get safely through.
Saw five big gators swimming today. None on the banks. Temperature in the high 80`s so probably too hot on the banks.
The water is very low and going down. Starting to worry about if there will be enough water in the Oconee for my trip up to Milledgeville.
Saw first otter of the trip today.
There has been no runoff because of the lack of rain so the river has been very clear. In a straight section on the Ben Hill County side of the river I saw many cut logs in about 4 feet of water. They were all about the same length and diameter. Probably left from the rafting days on the river. Could have been down there for over 100 years.
The clear water has also kept my water filter in good working order. On past trips I have had to disassemble and clean it every couple of days.
Can hear the 441 traffic in the distance. Have had a long hot day, so the sounds of civilization should not keep me awake.
Wednesday, October 19 Day 6
7:15 a.m. The only unusual sound last night was a weird scream. Didn`t last long. Probably a bobcat.
The traffic on 441 slowed down a lot during the night but is picking up now. I am completely alone but the sound of 441 traffic reminds me how close I am to a busy world. My days are simple: eat, paddle, take some pictures, set up my tent and sleep.
